The spot: Walking into Sticky Rice is like stumbling into the dream-like world of Willy Wonka; the crayon-yellow walls are adorned with brightly colored giant flowers and paper umbrellas. A couple of the Northern Thai menu items seem just as whimsical, such as the deep-fried silk worm ($4.95; available seasonally) or the khai jiaw khai Mod, an omelet packed with ant eggs ($5.75). If you’re on an insect-free diet, not to worry—you’ll find all of the expected Thai noodle and rice dishes at reasonable prices. For a spicy kick, try the Northern Thai sausage, house-made with ground pork, pork skin, Thai herbs and red curry paste ($2); it’s served with jasmine rice, or for $1 more, you can get the restaurant’s namesake sticky rice.

The bottle: What wine goes with ant eggs? Good question. Cool the palate with some Thai beer from nearby West Lakeview Liquors. Family-owned and -operated since 1988, this charming corner shop sells Singha Lager and Phuket six-packs for $8.99 each. If sipping wine with your silk worms is more your style, store owner Kristina Bozic recommends pairing Thai food with a 2005 gewurztraminer from northern Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley Vineyards for $8.99. -- Emily Hiser Lobdell is a Metromix special contributor.

banyan wines from Sonoma is the quintessential wine for thai food. they know 'cause they are making wines specifically for the spicy cuisine. Gewurtz, Riesling and Vionger. dig it!

www.banyanwines.com